Notes by Nectar

Your destiny lies in your own hands

Jamaica 2015: Week 4

On Sunday morning, we decided we’d go to Hellshire for lunch. I’d never been there and my parents keep raving about it, so I was keen to go. So my brother (S), sister-in-law (T), nephew (Baby A) and I left home at around 12.30. I was told it was about 45 minutes away. On the way, we stopped to pick up one of S’s friends – and off we went. When we were about 20 minutes away, T called Screechie’s (the restaurant) to order our food as it gets quite crowded on Sundays.

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Hellshire Beach consists of several different restaurant shacks on the beach – all serving fresh fish and seafood. We’d ordered four fried snappers (each one comes with ‘festival’ or fried bread), one fried bammy (cassava) and one steamed bammy with vegetables.

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Screechie’s wasn’t crowded but we still waited a while for our food. The beach was quite crowded but the breeze was lovely! The only thing that was annoying was that people kept trying to sell us things every few minutes – from toys to sunglasses…

The fish was excellent – and so was the ‘festival’! Then again, most fried things are good…

Before we left, T and I went to use the washroom – we had to walk around the back of the restaurant to an enclosed area. The door was held closed by a nail at the top of the door which could be twisted to open and close the door. Inside this space, it looked like a junkyard – there were a few people milling around, a couple of dogs, an old car engine, an old Pepsi machine which had been taken apart and a few other random bits and pieces. Fortunately the bathroom was clean. Well, it seemed clean – but it’s hard to tell when the tiles on the floor and the walls are dark brown!

The drive back didn’t take very long at all and we were home by 4pm.

I spent the whole of Monday at the office and got lots done.

On Tuesday T and I were invited out to lunch by a friend and her mum. They took us to East – a Japanese restaurant in Marketplace. We had some edamame, a couple of salads and the yellowtail with jalapenos to start with, and then shared a spicy Philadelphia roll and prawn tempura roll. For dessert we shared a coffee-flavoured dessert which was covered in whipped cream. I’m not sure what it was called, but it was delicious – and I’m not even a big fan of coffee desserts.

Some general observations while I’ve been here:

  • People walking in the street seem to be in no rush whatsoever to get where they’re going (if they even know where they’re going) – then again it’s pretty hot so perhaps they’re simply conserving energy
  • People (mostly men) ride bicycles that are way too small for them – but then I don’t think they really care as long as they can get from A to B
  • My hair seems to be getting more and more curly each day that I’m here – it’s out of control
  • Mosquitoes love me

I spent Wednesday at the office again – and in the evening, S, T and I popped over to my aunt and uncle’s for a while.

On Thursday morning, T and I went to a Zumba class at Chai Studios, not far from the house. And that evening S, T and I went to watch a CPL (Caribbean Premier League) cricket match at the National Stadium with some friends – it was my first cricket match. We had tickets for the ‘Party Stand’ (what used to be the ‘Mound’) – tickets were J$1500 (less than US$15) and included a ticket for a meal (options were burgers, chicken wings and jerk chicken) and drinks were free. Sponsored drinks, that is – so Appleton Rum, Stag beer and I’m not sure what else. The Jamaica Tawallahs played Trinidad and Tobago Red Steel. Jamaica batted first – so that part was fun and everyone was really into it. In the second half, people lost interest and we didn’t even stay to the end.

I spent all of Friday at home. I read some of my book, I did some work, I played with my nephew. We ordered some Chinese food that evening and had an early night.

On Saturday we went to the beach on a friend’s boat which is docked at the Yacht Club, close to the airport. Just before we got on to Norman Manley Highway, I noticed a sign that said ‘Crash hot spot’ but didn’t think anything else of it. Less than two minutes later, as we turned a bend, we came extremely close to a head-on collision with another car that was overtaking a third car. Fortunately S has quick reflexes and managed to swerve out of its way. And fortunately there was enough space for him to swerve into because it would have been a terrible accident. We made to the Yacht Club and found the boat.

It was our friend’s new boat and S and T hadn’t been out on it either. It’s called Jus2Bad (seriously, it is). The boat was big. When you walk in, there is a living area with an L-shaped sofa on one side and another seating area on the other side. Down a couple of steps is the kitchen area with a sink, fridge and microwave. Down a couple more steps are three bedrooms – the master bedroom with ensuite bathroom, a second bedroom with a double bed and ensuite bathroom, and a third small room with bunk beds. It can sleep six comfortably, but if you use the sofas in the living area as well, you could sleep about ten or twelve on the boat. There’s also an 11-foot whaler on the bow.

It took us about an hour to get there but ‘the beach’ turned out to be Maiden Cay – a mound of sand in the middle of the ocean. On weekends, boats drop their anchors while their passengers swim, drink, snorkel, barbecue and dance in the middle of the sea.

We were there till about 3.30pm, sailed back by 4.30 and were home by 5.30 or so. We had to get ready in a rush as we were going out for dinner and were supposed to be there at 7pm. We left home shortly after 7pm and got there at around 7.20pm.

Dinner was in one of S and T’s friend’s gardens. She’s a caterer by profession and every couple of months she hosts an evening called ‘Dining with Lex’ where she charges a fixed amount per head for food (drinks were extra). There were eight of us on our table, but there must have been about fifty people there for dinner.

Dining with Lex - menu

Dining with Lex – menu

I thought the food was really good and the presentation was innovative. What a creative way to get more clients! There was also karaoke for those who wanted to sing. We left after dinner at around 10.30pm as T and I had to be up early the next morning.

I love my life.

To read more about Jamaica, click here.

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Jamaica 2015: Week 3

My sister-in-law (T) and I left Kingston at around 11.30am to head to Old Fort Bay near Ocho Rios. The drive was lovely – as we went through Sligoville and on to the highway. We didn’t hit any traffic and were at Scotchie’s by 1.15 in time for lunch! We had some jerk chicken and coconut water – and then went on to Old Fort Bay which is just 5 minutes from there.

We were spending three nights at Old Fort Bay on a yoga retreat, the same one I did the year before. We were at Old Fort Bay Cottage by 2pm and were met with cold towels and a hug from Chandra, the yoga teacher and organiser. This year, it was just T, our yoga teacher, a girl from Vancouver and me. As the cottage wasn’t full, T and I were able to have separate rooms with a shared bathroom. We were all at the beach by 2.30pm.

Old Fort Bay

Old Fort Bay

I think this is one of the nicest beaches I’ve ever been to… We had a gentle yoga session in the garden followed by dinner of coconut fish curry and rice. It was delicious. We also had a couple of bottles of wine and T and I tried to teach the other two how to play Kalooki. The game that took an hour in Kingston took over 2 hours that evening! We all went to our rooms at around midnight.

I slept so badly. I was so hot. The fan in my room didn’t reach the corner of the room where the bed was. At around 2.30am I decided to move the bed but the wooden frame was so heavy, I barely moved it a few inches. Still, it was better than no air and I did eventually fall asleep.

I woke up drenched in sweat and couldn’t wait to get to the beach for our yoga session. It was very windy that morning though – and the corners of our mats kept getting blown over! It was a good session though – and I enjoyed rinsing the mat (and myself) off in the ocean afterwards.

We went back to the cottage for breakfast (scrambled eggs and toast) and at about noon I decided to take a nap. The others walked to Laughing Waters, a private waterfall about 20 minutes away. I was tired and had a bad headache so I decided to skip it – I’d been there last year so I didn’t feel too bad about missing out. I’d also moved the bed closer to the fan so I could be more comfortable.

At around 3pm, I got up and went to the beach. There weren’t many people around as it was a Monday, but the beach was beautiful. I noticed a small sand crab not far from where my sunbed was and spent a while watching it. It crept out of its hole towards various objects, and then quickly grabbed them and scuttled back to its house. And then it did the same thing over and over again. It was fascinating to watch. This little guy knew exactly what he was doing with his life! I continued watching him until a wave went over his little burrow – and he didn’t come out again. Aren’t they somehow waterproof??

The others came back from Laughing Waters at around 4pm and we relaxed at the beach for a while longer. After dinner (mango shrimp and rice and callaloo) we went back to the beach for a moonlight walking meditation. We just walked along the shore, we could go into the water if we wanted to, we could do anything we wanted but we couldn’t speak to each other until we were back at the house. We had an early night that night and I slept soundly.

It was really hot on Tuesday and yoga was tough, even at 8.30am. The breeze from the day before had disappeared and the water was much calmer too.

After our breakfast of saltfish and ackee and plaintain, we went back to the beach and floated around in the waves for a while. I even saw two small fish right next to me and was so surprised to see them that my sudden movement scared them off. We spent most of the afternoon at the beach – I dozed off on my sunbed for a while. At about 4pm, T and I went to the craft market in Ocho Rios. She wanted to get a drum for my nephew (Baby A). Chandra came with us as she was looking for paintings for the cottage. It was hot in that market though – I couldn’t wait to get out of there. We had our evening yoga session on the beach, watching the almost-full moon rising while the sun was setting. Magical.

Dinner that night was fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, and bammy (cassava). The cook, Ms June, also made us a ‘special’ cake. Forget about being ‘special’, the cake itself was unbelievably light and fluffy. I only had one piece though, which was enough for me. I was in bed, reading, quite early that night.

When we got to the beach on Wednesday morning, the tide was really high. We barely had enough space for our yoga mats – and Chandra did get wet a couple of times. My mat was fine until the very end when I was lying in savasana, and suddenly felt water creeping up to my waist. It was such a welcome relief from the heat that I started smiling. After our customary dip in the water, we went back to the cottage for breakfast – scrambled eggs, sausages and toast. T and I got our stuff together, and were headed back to Kingston by noon.

That evening, we went over to my uncle and aunt’s place for a little while and then came home for dinner.

On Thursday, T and I took Baby A to PriceSmart for the weekly groceries and then I caught up on some work as I hadn’t done anything all week. I had a really lazy Friday – I read my book for most of the day and had a mani/pedi.

On Friday night, we met up with a couple of S and T’s friends. We had dinner at Taurus Court restaurant in Musgrave Commercial Centre. The service was average – and we waited a while for the food. But it was so worth it. S and I shared a hot and sour soup – and we both agreed that it was excellent. We also had malah shrimp (disappointing), Thai style chicken (good, but not really Thai – more like chicken with cashew nuts), roasted char siu (not bad) and pan-fried spare ribs with garlic (amazing). I was so entertained by the menu:

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Cockbum Port?

Cockbum Port?

I could have changed every single page of it!

After dinner we went to a bar called CRU – it’s a really nice rooftop bar, and it was packed. The music was good, the drinks were good, the company was fun. It was also my latest night out and we were home at 2am.

Saturday was really lazy. T took Baby A for a swim in the late afternoon but I didn’t get ready until 5pm. That night we went over to one of S’s friends for a barbecue. We were the first ones there and we were on time. The next person didn’t arrive until an hour and a half later and others an hour after that! Time-keeping is not one of their priorities here, clearly. The food was good though – spring rolls and crab cakes to start with, and lasagne, salad and garlic bread for the main course. We were the first to leave at around 11pm – but I’d already faded at around 9.30pm. I couldn’t wait to get into bed.

I love my life.

To read more about Jamaica, click here.